Slab leak pipe rerouting: what to know in Arizona
When a line under the floor has failed, a new line can serve the same fixtures by another path. The old run is capped and left in the ground.
Because the floor is not opened, rerouting suits finished homes with tile throughout and lines that are hard to reach.
Slab leak signs people notice
Earlier leaks, where they were and what was done, help the technician plan.
Ask About Reroute OptionsWhy Arizona homes get slab leaks
Arizona homes often have attics with easy access, and many plumbing runs can be moved to walls or the ceiling space. Single-story layouts help.
The new line is above the slab, so any future leak is easier to find and reach.
How it is done
The technician plans a path to each fixture the old line served. New pipe is run through walls or the attic, with small openings made in drywall where needed. The old line is isolated and the new one is pressure tested.
Drywall patching and paint are separate trades.
What a leak detection technician does
The leak is located first, to confirm which run has failed and which fixtures it serves. A reroute plan and price are given before work begins.
Rerouting generally takes longer than a spot repair and involves more access inside the house.
Tell the dispatcher the year the home was built and whether there is a pool.
Meter Still Moving? Talk to a Leak TechWhat a reroute looks like inside the house
A reroute is planned fixture by fixture. The technician walks the house, checks which lines served which fixtures and decides where each new run goes.
Small openings are made in drywall where the pipe has to pass. Many runs go through the attic, which keeps the work off the floor.
The new lines are pressure tested before the old run is capped. Patching and paint are done by others.
Rerouting suits finished floors and hard-to-reach leaks, and gives a line that is easier to get at later.
What a reroute does
A reroute leaves the leaking line under the slab, caps it at each end and runs a new line by another path to the same fixtures. Usually the new path goes through walls or the attic. The slab is not opened at the leak.
It suits leaks that are hard to reach, leaks under expensive flooring or cabinets, and lines that have leaked more than once. It is one of four options, and the technician explains why it fits or does not fit your case.
Because the leaking run is taken out of service, a reroute also removes the chance of another leak on that particular stretch under the slab. It does not change the other lines in the house.
The technician cannot promise how long any repair will last, but can explain what a reroute changes and what it leaves as it is.
How the work is done
The crew plans the new route from the point where the line leaves the main to the fixtures it serves. Small openings are made in walls or ceilings to run the new line, and at each fixture to connect it.
Water is off to the affected fixtures during the work. On many homes the reroute can be done in a day, though layouts vary and the technician gives you a realistic idea in advance.
When the new line is in, it is tested and the meter is read with everything off. You see the reading before the crew leaves.
Openings are patched as part of the plumbing work. Matching paint and texture is often done by other trades, and the technician tells you what will be left.
Reroute or spot repair?
A spot repair opens the floor at one place and keeps the existing route. A reroute avoids the floor but involves walls and ceilings. Which is better depends on where the leak is and what is above it.
If the leak is under carpet in an open room, a spot repair can be simple. If it is under a kitchen island or a large tile floor, a reroute may cause less disruption overall.
If the same run has leaked before, a reroute takes it out of the slab entirely. That is often the deciding point.
You hear the reasoning for each option before anything is booked, and the choice is yours.
Where a new line can run
In a single-story home, the attic is the most common route. A new line is run from the point where water enters the house, up into the attic and down to each fixture it serves. Small openings are made in walls or ceilings where the line drops.
In some homes, the new line runs through interior walls without going into the attic. This can suit homes where the attic is hard to reach or where the line only needs to travel a short distance.
Garages and closets often provide easy paths. The technician looks for routes that keep openings small and out of sight.
In two-story homes, the new route may run through the space between floors. The technician explains what would need to be opened.
Whatever the route, you see the plan before work starts.
Rerouting hot and cold lines
Hot-side lines are often rerouted on their own, because hot-side leaks are common and hot lines serve fewer fixtures. A hot reroute might serve only the kitchen and bathrooms.
Cold-side lines serve more fixtures, including toilets and outdoor bibs, so a full cold reroute is a bigger job.
Some homeowners reroute both sides at once, especially after several leaks.
The technician explains what each option involves for your house.
Every new line is tested and the meter read before the crew leaves.
After a reroute
Once the new line is in and tested, the old slab line is capped and left in place. It no longer carries water.
You may notice a change in how quickly hot water reaches some taps, because the new route may be longer or shorter than the old one.
Openings in walls and ceilings are patched. Matching paint and texture is often done by other trades.
Keep a note of where the new line runs. Future work in those walls or the attic will be easier.
Do the meter check after a week to confirm the system is holding.
A typical reroute case
A family notices a warm patch in the kitchen floor near an island with a stone top. Testing shows the hot line under the kitchen is leaking, and the mark falls directly under the island.
A spot repair would mean moving or protecting the island, lifting tile around it and opening the slab beneath. A reroute would mean running a new hot line from the water heater through the attic and down a wall to the kitchen sink.
The technician explains both. In a case like this, many owners choose the reroute, because the attic and wall openings are smaller and easier to restore than the kitchen floor. Others prefer the spot repair to keep the original route.
Either way, the work is explained in full before it is booked, and the new or repaired line is tested with the meter read before the crew leaves.
The contractor gives you a quote, and nothing starts until you agree to it.
Not Sure Where the Water’s Going? Call UsQuestions about slab leak reroutes
Is the old line removed?
No. It is isolated and left in the ground.
Will it show?
Pipe runs in walls and the attic. Openings are patched but may need painting.
Is it permanent?
New pipe is expected to last for many years. Ask about the materials and warranty.
Is it cheaper than a spot repair?
Not usually. It may avoid damage to the floor.
Will I lose water during the reroute?
For part of the work, yes. The technician plans around it.
Does it need a permit?
The technician advises on what applies at your address. Ask before work begins.
Will walls be damaged?
Small openings are needed and patched. Painting is separate.
Does the old line stay in the ground?
Yes, isolated and capped. The new line runs through walls or the attic instead.